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Ferns in the glasshouse

Ferns do very well in the glasshouse where conditions are normally more humid and brighter than in the house. The temperature, light and humidity can be controlled to suit the range of species that you want to keep. The glasshouse can also be used to overwinter tender ferns that will thrive in the garden over the summer months.

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1

Temperature

Glasshouses are either cold (unheated), cool (always above freezing), warm (never below 8–10 °C) or are hothouses (never below 16–18 °C). Winter heating is best provided by electric glasshouse heaters and summer cooling by shading and ventilation control. Using automation is more reliable and easier. Insulation can make heating more economical.

2

Light

Many exotic ferns come from places where there is little seasonal variation in light levels. Additional lighting in the winter months can maintain ferns metabolism and encourage healthy growth. In summer, shading with blinds or greenhouse paint may be needed to reduce temperature and also light, which can burn delicate fern fronds.

3

Humidity

The humidity of air outside the greenhouse can be very variable depending on rainfall and temperature. In general, having wet surfaces and damp pots in a greenhouse will produce a higher and more stable level. However, if ferns are showing signs of low humidity, this can be boosted by glasshouse humidifiers or by misting systems.

Choice Ferns

Most ferns do well in a glasshouse but some demand the temperature and humidity that only a glasshouse can provide. Controlling the environment allows some very attractive and interesting ferns to be grown. In addition, delicate ferns do not get damaged by the weather. However, pests and diseases can thrive in a glasshouse and vigilance is needed to deal with these.

Caring for your ferns in your glasshouse.

Glasshouses that have the sole purpose of growing plants offer the most scope for growing humid and tropical ferns. Humidity levels can be raised with water trays, ‘damping down’ (where water is sprayed regularly onto a water-resistant floor to evaporate), ultrasonic humidifiers or pressurised misters, higher humidity levels being achievable as you work through this list. Humidity levels of 60 %RH is probably the minimum to achieve whilst some tropical ferns (and filmy ferns in cool houses) require levels of 80–95 %RH.


Heat can be provided by indirect methods such as hot water radiators or electric fan or convection heaters. What temperature is maintained depends on the requirement of the plants and reference to books on fern culture and to flora, defining the characteristics and altitude of the ferns’ natural habitat, will help to determine minimum day and night temperatures. Some ferns (such as tree ferns) require that the temperature has a diurnal variation with cooler nights than days.

 

More of a problem can be cooling the glasshouse in the summer, when temperatures can rise to high levels very quickly if the glasshouse is in direct sun. Ideally, glasshouses should have some degree of shading from trees or buildings and the resultant reduction in light levels will generally not harm ferns. Otherwise, shading will have to be provided by blinds, either external or internal. The level of light transmission should be 20–40 % but the shading should be capable of being removed in the winter months or on overcast days to allow extra light to enter. Heat reflective greenhouse paint on the glass can also be used, but this will need to be removed in winter.

 

Ventilation can also help control temperature but at the expense of humidity if simple evaporation systems are used. Automatic window opening systems are more reliable than manual. Ultrasonic humidifiers and misting systems can be set to operate when humidity drops to a pre-set level, although a reliable supply of suitable water is needed for both. Hard mains water and ion-exchange soft water can leave deposits of calcium and sodium on the plants respectively. Sodium salts can prove fatal to some ferns.

 

Light can be controlled by lowering and raising blinds and can be topped-up in winter months to extend the daylight hours to 12 or so. Intense LED bulbs give out virtually no heat and, although initially expensive, have very long lifespans. 

 

Finally, growing any plants in an artificial environment can lead to problems not encountered in the garden. The most obvious is pests and diseases which can thrive in a closed environment, especially if it is crowded. Please see the section on ‘Problems’ for more information on this.
 

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